SOP: Standard Operating Procedure of Cutting Quality of Garments Industry

Cutting Quality – Standard Operating Procedure

Objective:

• To ensure that all garments parts are cut as per the Pattern.
• Decision to re-cut the garment parts if any non-conformance to specifications.
• To provide prompt and immediate information should a problem occurs at the beginning and or during the process.
• To support sewing to achieve higher productivity

Scope:

This system of checking covers the whole cutting process.

Authority:

The control and implementation of this procedure lies on the Quality Department Head.

Responsibility:

The responsibility to implement this procedure lies on the Cutting In-charge assigned in Cutting.

Likewise, it is also responsibility of the cutting Manger to ensure that Quality Problems reported by the QA inspector(s) in Cutting are being addressed immediately.

Procedure:

The Cutting inspection comprises of five areas of Inspection.

• Marker Inspection
• Spreading Inspection
• Cutting Inspection
• 100% Cut Panel inspection
• Bundling Inspection

Checking of Production Patterns:

The following task shall be performed by the cutting QC when checking production patterns.

• Production Pattern against original Approved pattern
• Size specs against original pattern
• Shrinkage allowance against Original pattern

Checking of Production Marker (Marker Inspection):

Cutting QC/QI checks 100% of the markers to be used for cutting before spreading starts.

• Check Marker against mini marker & verify the marker as per cut plan.
• Check mini marker shrinkage against actual marker.
• Marker Type (Normal Marker or Special Marker to accommodate Center to end Shading, Running Shading, End to End Shading, Bowing etc).
• No of components per garment and size ratio
• Marker Length and actual fabric lay length
• Marker Width
• Matching, Panel positioning, Drawing Lines & Pattern Grain line
• Approved Solid Patterns against marker

Spreading Inspection:

• Assigned Cutting QI must ensure that the following checklists are followed during the process of checking spreading.
• Fabric Roll shrinkage against Marker Shrinkage
• The side of the spread should be aligned. (Tolerance + or -1/8)
• The fabric laid should extend 1/8” to 1/4” outside of the Marker.
• Check fabric width against marker width – Marker width should be as same as Cuttable width or less than cut table width
• The overlap of fabric at splice point should exceed at least 2” on either side of the parts in the splice.
• Assortment Ratio, Face side construction should be checked.
• Number of layers & Lay height (Lay height should not exceed 7.5cm (3”) or as per buyer requirements.
• The spread fabric should be not stretched, and wrinkle-free before cutting
• Fabric Roll shrinkage against Pattern shrinkage – Tolerance + or – 1% or as per pattern grouping.

Cutting Accuracy Inspection:

• Assigned Cutting QI shall conduct 10% random check of cut pieces from total cut quantity at random from top lay, middle and bottom. (Only major components e.g Front, Back etc shall be checked) for cutting accuracy.
• Check whether the cut pieces contain the correct number of notches at specified position against the original pattern.
• Check whether cut parts fits into the approved pattern. Tolerance plus or minus 1/8”.
• Check whether the parts that require matching are fully matched.

100% Cut Panels Inspection:

• After Numbering (prior to Bundling), Big Panels (Front, Back Panels) checked 100% for fabric flaws and cutting defects.
• Defective panels/parts folded half and serial number been noted in the 100% Cut part inspection report and handed over to recut panel team for parts re-cutting.
• Re-cutting must be done from the same roll or same shade group & the cut cake returned to QI for double checking whether the replacement panel is cut from same shade group as well as free from defects.
• QI random checks sequencing of numbering. Numbering of plies should start from the bottom of the plies.
• Numbering must be placed as per the numbering plan based on the style requirements.

Bundling Inspection:

Each bundle must have a ticket containing information must ensure that the following tasks are followed during the process of Bundling components.

• Style number/Cut Number/Component /Quantity/Color/Shade/Size & Serial Number
• QC shall check whether components are bundled exactly as per information in the bundle ticket.
• He/she checks whether components are bundled neither too loose nor too tight. Bundles must be rolled over and tied loose causing no crinkle marks on the parts.
• For the final audit process, the quality inspector will determine how many bundles to check from every size according to the AQL chart. Each of these bundles will undergo the following inspection:
• All parts from the same shade number should not have shade differences.
• All parts have the proper shape according to the marker
• All parts must have all notches in the correct location and with the appropriate depth.

Cutting Equipment Inspection:

Ensure that the blade of the knife is sharp.

• Ensure that the length of the knife is appropriate.
• Ensure that enough weights and clamps are available for holding the lay in position.

Fusing Test:

Objective

To ensure that fusing parameters (time, temperature & pressure) followed consistently to attain proper fusing quality

• To determine the bond strength of prescribed interlining to the given fabric.

Procedure:

• Cutting QI checks Fusing Parameters (Temperature, Time & Pressure), bond strength and fusing quality at least two times a day against the requirements (Data Sheet).
• Position the thermo-paper in between the shell fabric and prescribed interlining with the thermo reading facing the shell fabric.
• Fuse fabric with interlining at given temperature, time speed and pressure. Check for fuse-line temperature (F/Temp) by getting the thermo-paper reading. Record fusing parameters and record results in fusing format.
• Check bond strength by pulling off about 5 cm wide of interlining from the shell. If interlining bond is strong on the fabric and no marked distortion on fabric shape is seen after fusing, given interlining at given fusing parameters is compatible with the fabric.
• Fusing quality – Quality inspector shall check the fused parts for fusing quality (strike through, bubbling, etc).

NOTE – Cutting QI records daily and monthly inspection reports. Cutting in-charge is being notified of the result of the inspection for possible immediate corrective action.